The distinctive floral and organic patterns woven in Lyon for Worth became as much a house signature as customized design and workmanship. The highly dimensional rendering of the rose motifs is dramatically offset by the color depth of their background, causing them to project forward. The asymmetry of the design, with its scalloped hem and petal-pink chiffon trims, is typical of Worth’s work during this period.
Bodice: Satin; boned, fitted, waist-length, center front busk point, sweetheart seaming at bust, inset brocade yoke; high V neck, chiffon ruffle; fitted, elbow-length sleeves, shirring at inner seam, turned-back brocade cuffs, pleated chiffon at opening; center front button closure.
Skirt: Satin brocade; floor-length, flat front, pleated at back with train, hip drapery; brocade center front panel with inverted pleat reversing to rust satin, Van Dyked center front hem.
The asymmetrical skirt is floor-length with a train. The brocade front and side panels are gathered into a decorative drape on the right hip to expose the rust satin underneath. The front panel is finished with a facing. On the back, the blue satin is pleated to form the bustle and the train.
Worn by mother of donor.
Gift of Francis H. Markoe, 1931.