Spring-Summer 1942 
U.S. Navy WAVES uniform, Yeoman, 3rd class 

Background Mainbocher was asked to design uniforms for the WAVES (Women Appointed for Volunteer Emergency Service) by Mrs. James V. Forrestal, wife of the Undersecretary of the Navy (as Josephine Ogden, she had been an editor of Vogue in the 1920s). The group’s formal name was the Women’s Reserve, United States Naval Reserve. Mainbocher charged the Navy $1 for his services. He based his uniform design on the traditional naval man’s uniform, complete with official Navy buttons, insignia and gob’s tie, but his naval woman’s suit featured a smooth, long-waisted silhouette and natural shoulders. Securing the services of Mainbocher was a great public relations coup for the WAVES’ war recruitment effort: the enormous national press coverage his design work received made Mainbocher a household name even among Americans with no other interest in fashion. Description Jacket: Fitted; four-button single-breasted; hip-length; round-end collar with separate peaked lapels; long set-in sleeve with shoulder pad; chest flaps; brass buttons with insignia; embroidered insignia patches on collar and left sleeve; four ribbon campaign bars on left chest flap; lined in black acetate. Skirt: Flared, six-gore; knee-length; 1¾" topstitched waistband; diagonal stand pockets at front hips; left side zipper closure; unlined. Shirt: Fitted; short sleeves with turn-back cuffs; point collar; front gathered into yoke with square points; grouped triple darts at waist; mother-of-pearl buttons. Necktie: Satin; oblique ends Garment structure The hip-length single-breasted jacket is fitted with a princess seam that begins at the shoulder. It fastens with machine-stitched thread buttonholes and four brass buttons with insignia. The flared knee-length skirt has six gores for easy walking, with a 1¾" topstitched waistband. Diagonal stand pockets flatter the figure at the front hips. The skirt is unlined and fastens on the left side with a slot zipper. Gift of Mrs. Gladys Schapira Moulton, 1946.

REFERENCE 
46.298.3A-D 
TECHNICAL DETAILS 
Navy blue worsted serge; white cotton plain weave; black acetate satin
Jacket:
Bust measurement: 34½”
Center back length: 23”
Skirt:
Waist measurement: 23”
Center back length: 25¼” 
Spring-Summer 1942 
U.S. Navy WAVES summer uniform, Yeoman, 3rd class 

Background Like their brother officers, the WAVES wore a summer dress uniform of white, identical in every other respect to their regulation navy blue suit. Officers’ uniforms featured gold Navy eagle buttons and cotton blouses of defense blue. White blouses were restricted to officers only and were worn both for dress and everyday wear. The grey and white seersucker service uniform was for everyday summer wear. Description Dress: Knee-length; short sleeve; round-end collar; front bodice shirred to forward shoulder seam and 1¾" waistband; flared skirt, deep inverted box pleat center front; left side in-seam zipper closure. Necktie ends: Rayon; pointed ends; 13" long; button on at each side of neck. Jacket: Fitted; hip length; four-button single-breasted; no collar, rounded peaked lapels; long set-in sleeves with shoulder pad; sweetheart-shaped pocket flaps at chest and hips, pocket at right hip; brass insignia buttons; embroidered insignia patches on lapels, left sleeve, and right chest flap. Garment structure The jacket center front fastens with machine-stitched thread buttonholes and four brass buttons with the eagle insignia. It has four decorative flaps, two placed above the bust and two at the hips, and is fitted with a princess seam that begins at the shoulder. The collarless neckline features peaked lapels. An embroidered insignia patch is placed on the right flap. The jacket has a jetted pocket on the inside lining. The matching knee-length dress has short sleeves and round ends on the collar. The bodice front is shirred to a dropped shoulder seam and at the waist. It has a vertical jetted pocket on the left side above the bust and a 1¾” waistband set in between the bodice and skirt. The skirt has a deep box pleat at center front. The dress fastens on the left side with a zipper closure. Its black ribbed rayon necktie has pointed ends which button onto the bodice beneath the collar. Gift of Mrs. Gladys Schapira Moulton, 1946.

REFERENCE 
46.298.4A-C 
TECHNICAL DETAILS 
Grey and white striped cotton seersucker; black ribbed rayon
Dress:
Bust measurement: 37”
Waist measurement: 24”
Center back length: 40”
Jacket:
Center back length: 23”
Necktie: 4” 
Fall-Winter 1942 
Evening gown 

Background Shown in September 1942, Mainbocher’s fall-winter collection of wartime fashion was anything but grim. Basic black, brown, and navy dresses were brightened with gold passementerie braid and embroidered swirls of gold, bronze and jet beads, and paillettes – embellishments not impacted by other wartime restrictions. Description Full-length; scoop front neckline with folded and draped hanging panel; short sleeves, bead and sequin embroidery in three bands and foliate scroll on shoulder; natural waist, slightly gathered; four-flared skirt; 1½" wide self belt, covered D-shaped buckle; center back zipper closure; short drop lining in black georgette at lower back bodice; black grosgrain waistband. Garment structure The slim silhouette of this evening gown is complemented by an asymmetrical drape at the front neckline. The bias-cut drape is unlined and finished at the edges with a narrow hem. Worn by Miss Isabel Schults. Gift of Mrs. J. Barry Donahue, 1987.

REFERENCE 
87.58 
TECHNICAL DETAILS 
Heavy black silk crepe; gold and bronze glass beads and sequins
Bust measurement: 38”
Waist measurement: 30”
Center back length: 56” 
ADDITIONAL IMAGES 
Fall-Winter 1942 
Shoulder cape 

Much of Mainbocher’s wartime ingenuity was in response to governmental restrictions on materials and the demands of his clients. The limits on the use of wool in the fall of 1942 led him to rely on fur, including silver fox, for outerwear, trims, and accessories. This shoulder cape tied atop a basic wool coat or one of his metamorphosis dresses (a classic black dress that relied on the use of accessories for updating and modification) would have offered clients a warm and luxurious means of altering an evening look. Description Shoulder cape; fitted; high V-neck; 6" wide fur border, tapered ends at sides of neck; long wide ties from front hem. Garment structure This versatile shoulder cape is fitted with a high V neck and trimmed with a 6” wide border of silver fox fur. The velvet lining is hand sewn. The long wide ties are tapered to the ends. (Photographed over 44.142.14.) Gift of Mr. and Mrs. Alexander Slater, 1979.

REFERENCE 
79.15.139 
TECHNICAL DETAILS 
Silver fox fur; black silk velvet
86” long, 6” wide at points 
October 1943 
Theatrical costume, "One Touch of Venus" 

Background Fashion reporters were agog at Mainbocher’s costumes designed for Mary Martin as Venus in "One Touch of Venus," the Broadway musical that opened in October 1943. In her role, Martin wore this “Venus pink” chiffon gown, trimmed with gold beaded bands, and a long Tanagra scarf. The daring plunge of its waist-length back drew all attention to one of Martin’s best physical attributes. The gown was featured in the November 1, 1943, issue of "Vogue" in a double-page editorial spread. Description Dress: Georgette; "Grecian" style; full length; deep V-neck in front, low scoop back with narrow crossed straps; gathered under bust; full skirt, seams open below hip; trimmed with beaded bands at neckline, criss-crossing on midriff, and running down skirt front; center back zipper closure; unlined. Underskirt: Georgette; circular cut; open front; ribbon waistband with center front hook closure. Garment structure Echoing Worth’s 19th-century ethos of consistence in quality, Mainbocher used the same fine textiles and couture techniques for theatrical designs as he did for his couture collections. The bodice seams are hand-overcast and the bodice shirring is hand sewn. The beaded straps are running-stitched by hand. The full five-gore flared skirt is cut so that the center front is a quarter-circle, the side and back panels half that size. The seams are unstitched below the hips, the side front seams are trimmed with beaded bands. The dress fastens at the left shoulder with a hook and eye and has a separating zipper on the left side. Unlined, it is worn over a circular-cut georgette underskirt that opens at center front and is finished with seam binding at the waist. It has a hook closure. Designed for and worn by Mary Martin. Gift of Mary Martin, 1968.

REFERENCE 
68.128.13A-C 
TECHNICAL DETAILS 
Peach georgette; peach rayon jersey; bronze and amber beads and sequins in rosette motifs
Label: Mainbocher / Inc.
Dress:
Bust measurement: 32”
Waist measurement: 24”
Center back length: 43”
Underskirt:
Center back length: 39” 
Spring-Summer 1944 
Evening dress, bolero, and "glamour" belt 

Background Mainbocher’s 1944 Spring-Summer Collection featured slim, graceful silhouettes. Perfect for hot summer evenings, many dresses were made of lace with matching coats or boleros, gleaming with embroidered beads and paillettes. Mainbocher encouraged women to pair their basic wartime dresses with look-altering accessories, providing an alternative to the purchase of a new full garment. Although this bustle—or glamour belt—may not have been purchased specifically for wear with this garment, it was bought by the same wearer and represents the kind of combination Mainbocher would have envisioned. Description Dress: Sheath; lace backed in off-white satin-back crepe; full-length; fitted, natural waist sleeveless bodice; curved V-neck with ½" sequined shoulder straps, low camisole back; ½" sequined waistband; straight skirt, flaring slightly at hem, center back godet from knee level; attached off-white satin-back crepe slip. Bolero: Rib-length; round neckline; cap sleeve; single hook at neck; faced with net. Bustle: Looping bow with asymmetrical pendant streamers in double-layered pink satin, densely applied with assorted silk and velvet artificial flowers accented by larger silk velvet roses; black silk belt with wide back section, 1" waistband. Garment structure This full-length evening gown is fabricated of embellished machine-made cordonnet lace. The dress is backed with tulle; the bodice is lined with satin-back crepe. It has a curved V-neck with a low camisole back. The ½”-wide tulle shoulder straps are covered with iridescent sequins. The neck edge is finished with 1”-wide double tulle. The dress is fitted with French darts and a sequined band at the natural waist. The straight skirt flares slightly at the hem. At center back, a godet begins at knee level. The dress fastens with a zipper at the left underarm seam. The rib-length bolero has a round neckline with short set-in sleeves. The edges are finished with a hand-sewn tulle binding. Gift of Mr. Robert Winthrop, 1986.

REFERENCE 
86.60.43A-C 
TECHNICAL DETAILS 
Floral patterned, off-white cordonnet machine lace, pastel pink, green, lavender and iridescent white beads and paillettes; pink satin; black silk twill; silk flowers
Label: Mainbocher / Inc.
Dress:
Bust measurement: 35”
Waist measurement: 30”
Center back length: 47”
Jacket :
Center back length: 13”
Bustle :
32” long at longest point 
ADDITIONAL IMAGES 
Fall-Winter 1945 
Day dress 

Background In his somber post-war collection for Fall 1945, Mainbocher refused to lighten his designs with any nostalgic nods to the pre-war past. Although this victory collection looked to the future, it retained references to the still vivid shadows of war. Based in black and dark “night” shades of blue, brown, green, and wine, the clothes featured hopeful touches of gold, pearl, and beaded embroidery sparkling down the fronts of suits, dresses, and gowns. Description Stylized shirtwaist dress; below-knee length; high round neck; long semi-raglan sleeve; center front placket, neck to waist, round buttonholes with bead embroidery; bodice gathered into front armhole and 1" waistband; flared skirt; curved diagonal darts at front hips with cartridge pleats below; left side in-seam zipper; skirt back half-lined in purple ribbed silk, short drop lining in purple georgette in upper front of skirt and lower back of bodice. Although not darted, the dress bodice accommodates the bust through light folds falling from the shoulder. A silk georgette stay is used beneath the gathers at the waist, to control the fullness. The dress has two working closures, a designer amenity intended to facilitate getting in and out of the dress. The skirt front is shaped with curved, diagonal darts and hand-stitched cartridge pleats transitioning the fullness from waist to hip. In front, the silk georgette drop-lining ends 6” above the hemline, with a half-lining used on the skirt back. Although originally conforming to the short length proscribed by war restrictions, the skirt has been lengthened with a facing to below the knee for continued post-war usage. Worn by the donor. Gift of Miss Isabel Shults, 1958.

REFERENCE 
58.123.5 
TECHNICAL DETAILS 
Dark purple wool crepe; amethyst glass beads and imitation pearl trim and ball buttons
Label: Mainbocher / Inc.
Bust measurement: 40”
Waist measurement: 31”
Center back length: 45½”