Background
In his somber post-war collection for Fall 1945, Mainbocher refused to lighten his designs with any nostalgic nods to the pre-war past. Although this victory collection looked to the future, it retained references to the still vivid shadows of war. Based in black and dark “night” shades of blue, brown, green, and wine, the clothes featured hopeful touches of gold, pearl, and beaded embroidery sparkling down the fronts of suits, dresses, and gowns.
Description
Stylized shirtwaist dress; below-knee length; high round neck; long semi-raglan sleeve; center front placket, neck to waist, round buttonholes with bead embroidery; bodice gathered into front armhole and 1" waistband; flared skirt; curved diagonal darts at front hips with cartridge pleats below; left side in-seam zipper; skirt back half-lined in purple ribbed silk, short drop lining in purple georgette in upper front of skirt and lower back of bodice.
Although not darted, the dress bodice accommodates the bust through light folds falling from the shoulder. A silk georgette stay is used beneath the gathers at the waist, to control the fullness. The dress has two working closures, a designer amenity intended to facilitate getting in and out of the dress.
The skirt front is shaped with curved, diagonal darts and hand-stitched cartridge pleats transitioning the fullness from waist to hip. In front, the silk georgette drop-lining ends 6” above the hemline, with a half-lining used on the skirt back. Although originally conforming to the short length proscribed by war restrictions, the skirt has been lengthened with a facing to below the knee for continued post-war usage.
Worn by the donor.
Gift of Miss Isabel Shults, 1958.