1946 
Theatrical costume, "Born Yesterday" 

Background Viewed from the stage, the Mainbocher touch was unmistakable. "Born Yesterday," which opened in February 1946, starred Judy Holliday as "Billie Dawn." This hostess robe, styled as a fitted, full-length cardigan with neat bows, slender lines, and silver beads, embodies the character’s desire for dignity and respect. The robe’s design, with its high set armholes, parallels Mainbocher’s concurrent work for the Duchess of Windsor. Description Fitted; full-length; round neck; short sleeves, small shoulder pads; center front closure with three self bows, open below hip; full skirt; bodice lined in yellow net; skirt lined in yellow and pink net; yellow grosgrain waist stay. Mainbocher’s deceptively simple design is characteristically technically complex in execution. Its lace ground is entirely over-embroidered in beads and sequins and given dimension through the hand-application of tinted net backings. The full skirt is made up of four quarter-circle gores—a design Mainbocher frequently used on evening designs. It is supported by three layers of variegated net. Gift of Ms. Corinne Bishop, 1980.

REFERENCE 
80.52.1 
TECHNICAL DETAILS 
Ecru lace over-embroidered with iridescent sequins and silver beads
Label: Holliday; Hagen (handwritten on waist tape)
Bust measurement: 32”
Waist measurement: 25½”
Center back length: 58”
Spring-Summer 1946 
Suit 

Background This was one of two navy blue suit models Mainbocher showed in his upbeat collection for Spring 1946. Stressing simplicity and basic line, he lowered skirt lengths to below the knee and kept his designs free of gimmicks. Featuring turn-back cuffs and two triple rows of large imitation pearl buttons, this suit embodies Mainbocher’s youthful, clean American styling. Description Jacket: Fitted; hip-length; single-breasted; flat tapered collar; deep V-neck; long set-in sleeves; curved welt pockets at chest; double row of three buttons; pointed turn-back cuffs, buttonholes for linked buttons at wrist; lined in black silk crepe. Skirt: Flared; below-knee length; five-gore with two inset gores on front; 1" waistband; left side zipper closure; back lined in black faille. Garment structure The jacket back is seamed from the shoulders to the waist where they are joined by short horizontal seams, a detail that adds interest to the back and improves the fit of the jacket. Decorative pearl buttons flank those of the center front working closure. Two curved double-welt pockets echo, but do not duplicate, the curve of the collar. The flared below-knee length five-gore skirt is inset with two front godets and has a 1” wide waistband and a left side zipper closure. The seat area is lined to create a smoother skirt back. The hem has been modified from its original length with a 2” inch false hem. Made for donor. Gift of Miss Isabel Shults, 1953.

REFERENCE 
53.133.2A-B 
TECHNICAL DETAILS 
Dark blue wool; imitation pearl buttons
Label: Mainbocher / Inc.
Jacket :
Bust measurement: 36”
Center back length: 24”
Skirt:
Waist measurement length: 31½”
Center back length: 29” (originally 27”)
Spring 1947 
Dress and matching vest 

Background This two-piece costume was one of Mainbocher’s innovative sweater treatments from Spring 1947. Fashioned from a silk crepe hand-blocked knit print with beaded embroidery, the short-sleeved dress and its matching cardigan-style vest employ multiple trompe l’oeil effects to suggest a three- rather than two-piece garment. Description Dress: Below-knee length; semi-fitted integral tunic; round neck; short sleeve; tacked knit printed belt with center front bow knot; large, dense cluster of beads at chest; bolero-effect back, open edge concealing low back neckline with wide nude tulle straps; slightly flared skirt; unlined; knit printed borders at neck, sleeves, and “tunic” hem. Vest: Cardigan-style with knit printed borders; hip-length; open front with brown plastic non-working buttons on either side. Garment structure The basic below-knee length dress is printed in a stylized basketweave pattern. It has a semi-fitted tunic-length bodice with the natural waist defined by a tacked knit printed belt. Two opposing left-side zippers converge to close at the waist, obscured by concealed hook-and-eye belt closure. Fashioned in two layers, the bodice is held in place by 1½” nude marquisette straps. The upper back floats over the interior 5” wide lower back, creating a bolero effect. The open front cardigan-style vest is trimmed with “knit” borders and non-functional buttons on each side. The buttonholes are hand-finished. Gift of Miss Isabel Shults, 1953.

REFERENCE 
53.133.5A-B 
TECHNICAL DETAILS 
Brown and cream printed silk crepe, trompe l'oeil basket weave and knit printed patterns; amber and gilt metal beads of various organic types
Label: Mainbocher / Inc. (dress)
Dress:
Bust measurement: 41”
Waist measurement: 31”
Center back length: 46”
Vest :
Center back length: 24” 
Spring 1947 
Evening dress 

Background Mainbocher was the first Western designer to re-envision Indian sari silks, draping them into couture gowns. His resulting singular garments were immensely popular, finding their way into the wardrobes of many of his best-dress customers, including Mary Martin and Babe Paley. This dress was made for the Oscar-winning actress and playwright Ruth Gordon, who modeled the dress for a full-page photograph, featured in the July 15, 1947, issue of Vogue. Description Full-length; fitted, wired and boned bodice in aqua; straight neckline, ¾" wide halter-effect shoulder straps forming V at center front and center back; full, random pleated skirt in violet; center back zipper closure; aqua self-belt, center front tailored bow with long ends hanging to hem, concealed left side closure; bodice lined in cream silk taffeta. Museum purchase, 1986.

REFERENCE 
86.19 
TECHNICAL DETAILS 
Pale aqua silk sari fabric brocaded gold floral border; Mars violet silk sari fabric brocaded in gold scrolling foliate
Label: Mainbocher Inc.
Bust measurement: 30”
Waist measurement: 22”
Center back length: 43” 
ADDITIONAL IMAGES 
Fall 1947 
Day dress 

Background While Dior marked the return to peacetime and its bountiful fabric supplies with his 1947 “New Look,” Mainbocher produced his own elegant collection by draping luxe fabrics into tiers, layers, flares, and folds. Unlike Dior, his shapes and volume were accomplished without the addition of inner corsets, waist cinchers, or mounded crinolines. The tiered flounces on this dress from his Fall 1947 collection exemplify his technical ease and minimal inner construction. Description Below-knee length; high round neck; three-quarter length set-in sleeves; slightly blouson bodice gathered into sweetheart-effect shoulder yoke; ¾" attached belt; three tiers of flounces on front skirt; circular-cut, flared bias back gores; narrow crescent-shaped collar along front neckline; left side in-seam zipper and back neck zipper closures. Garment structure This hem returns to a pre-war, below-knee length. The slightly blouson bodice has a high round neck with a narrow crescent-shaped collar along the front neckline. The bodice is lightly shaped with soft shirring from a sweetheart-effect shoulder yoke and has three-quarter length set-in sleeves. The three skirt flounces are circular cut. The top layer is sewn into the waist seam and hidden by the narrow belt. The two lower tiers are sewn to the surface of the underskirt by hand. The dress has two zipper closures: one at the left side in-seam and one at the back neck in a slit. Made by Mainbocher for donor. Gift of Miss Isabel Shults, 1958.

REFERENCE 
58.123.3 
TECHNICAL DETAILS 
Black ribbed silk
Bust measurement: 39”
Waist measurement: 30”
Center back length: 48” 
Spring 1948 
Suit with two blouses 

Background The wool of this suit conforms to the subdued palette of Mainbocher’s Spring 1948 collection. The skirt’s six gores create fullness without bulk and the suit’s two blouses, in periwinkle blue silk and blue-and-white checked cotton, coordinate with both the blue-grey colored wool and the grey silk jacket lining. Description Jacket: Wool; fitted, five-button, single-breasted; hip-length; V-neck; rounded notched collar with lapel cut-in-one with front of jacket; long set-in sleeves; fishtail reverse appliqué at sides of front neck; fishtail appliqué band at wrists; grey composition buttons; lined in grey china silk. Skirt: Wool; flared six-gore; below-knee length; 1" waistband; hip yoke; left side zipper closure, flared gores. Blouse: Silk surah; high neck with cowl bib collar; short sleeve; grouped tucks at waist; shield-shaped applique at chest; center back snap closure; white grosgrain waist tape. Blouse: Cotton; fitted; short-sleeve, slightly gathered at cap; high round neck; mock placket with self-covered buttons and serrated flange; grouped tucks at waist; bias binding at neck and sleeve; center back snap closure. Garment structure This versatile suit has two blouses—a casual cotton for country or more relaxed wear and a more formal silk. The fitted jacket has princess seams from the arms and an unusual round notched collar. Single-breasted, it fastens at center front with handmade buttonholes and composition buttons. It is embellished with reverse appliqués in a fishtail motif and hand-lined in china silk. The below-knee length flared six-gore skirt has a 1” waistband with darted hip yoke for a smooth fit. It fastens on the left side with a handsewn zipper. Made for donor. Gift of Miss Isabel Shults, 1958.

REFERENCE 
58.123.2A-D 
TECHNICAL DETAILS 
Blue-grey wool twill; periwinkle blue silk surah discharge print; blue-and-white checked cotton
Label: Mainbocher Inc.
Jacket:
Bust measurement: 38”
Center back length: 24”
Skirt:
Waist measurement: 32”
Center back length: 30”
Silk blouse:
Center back length: 23”
Cotton blouse:
Center back length: 21” 
Spring 1948 
Ensemble 

Background Critically celebrated during the 1930s for his transformation of humble fabrics into haute couture masterworks, Mainbocher again filled his Spring 1948 collection with pretty dresses made from fresh-colored ginghams. This summer dinner dress and jacket demonstrate his technique of layering two different textiles—here, gingham and sheer lace—visually melding them into a third richer fabric. Description Dress: Mid-calf length; fitted bodice; sweetheart neck front and back; ¾" attached self belt at natural waist; hip yoke; full, bias-cut, four-gore skirt; left side zipper. Jacket: Semi-fitted; waist-length; rounded, notched lapel; three-quarter length sleeve; three-button center front closure, black composition buttons, bound buttonholes; lined in white silk crepe. Garment structure In this dress Mainbocher relies solely on fabric manipulation for shape, eliminating the need for backing, lining or inner structure. The edges are finished with simple, narrow chiffon facings, the interior raw edges with hand overcasting. The fitted bodice has a front and back sweetheart neckline. The lace has been cut and appliquéd to fit seamlessly, eliminating sharp seam and dart lines. The left side seam zipper is hand sewn. A narrow self-fabric belt covers the waist seam and fastens with a hook and eye on the left side. Cut slightly shorter than the actual waistline, a grosgrain stay anchors the dress at the waist, eliminating stress on the zipper. The bias-cut mid-calf length skirt has four-gores and a yoke, creating a smooth line below the lace and a soft drape, facilitating mobility. Worn by donor. Gift of Miss Isabel Shults, 1973.

REFERENCE 
73.144.2A-B 
TECHNICAL DETAILS 
Black-and-white plaid gingham overlaid with sheer black machine lace
Label: Mainbocher /Inc.
Dress:
Bust measurement: 39”
Waist measurement: 30”
Center back length: 35”
Jacket:
Center back length: 19½