Fall 1932 
Evening coat 

Background Mainbocher’s first Paris collection of 1930 was not an instant success, but by 1932 his business was thriving. This early coat shows several hallmarks of his classic style, including bias cut drape in simple lines and a penchant for metallic yarns. Description Coat: Tent shape; ankle-length; flared, bias-cut; rolled scarf collar; three-quarter-length sleeve, cut with body in front, saddle shoulder in back, full at elbow with V-shaped knife pleats, oblique wrist opening; waist level welt vents for belt; lined in black satin Belt: Self fabric; 2" wide; rectangular covered buckle; brass grommets; satin backing; center back inserted extension of black satin (not original). Garment structure Deceptively simple with its graceful swing back, the coat is intricately cut with the front and sleeve in one piece. It can be worn without a belt or worn with the belt threaded through the vertical bound buttonholes at the sides and tied in front (the coat is shown here with the belt threaded through the coat interior). Photographed over 44.142.14. Gift of Parsons the New School for Design, 1986.

REFERENCE 
86.71.7A-B 
TECHNICAL DETAILS 
Black silk faille shot with gold metallic threads
Label: Mainbocher / 12 Avenue George V à Paris; Made in France
Center back measurement: 54½”
Belt/waist measurement: 36½” 
1935 
Evening dress 

Background Mainbocher drew inspiration from beautiful fabrics like this Persian-patterned metallic brocade, a gleaming example of his ongoing fascination with Eastern-inspired motifs. Description Fitted; full-length; sleeveless; sweetheart neck with draped circular collar, fan-pleated at center front; narrow low scoop back; trumpet skirt, fuller in back; center back covered-button closure; diamond-shaped panel at center front waist; front and back neckline form overlapped points at back shoulders; unlined; self belt, 1" wide, pointed end, concealed center front closure. Garment structure This intricate bias design has no side seams; instead, seams are located where they can best flatter the figure. Accordingly, the diamond inset at center front shapes the dress to enhance the figure and provides an interesting design element. Gift of Dr. A. Hamilton Rice, 1944.

REFERENCE 
44.142.14 
TECHNICAL DETAILS 
Metallic pink and silver brocade in scrolling foliate design with boteh (paisley) motifs
Label: Mainbocher / 12 Avenue George V à Paris
Bust measurement: 35”
Waist measurement: 30”
Center back length: 43” 
1935 
Evening dress (and jacket, not shown) 

Background In Paris, Mainbocher’s collections were sold to private clients and, as models, to merchant buyers as well. American stores, such as Saks Fifth Avenue, filled their exclusive salons with Paris creations, including this evening dress and its in-house produced jacket (not shown). However, with the opening of his New York salon in 1940, Mainbocher severed his connections to commercial outlets, rejecting the haute couture tradition of sales to American stores. Description Dress: Sheath; full-length; wide V-neck, overlapped, tucks at center front into seam below bust; plunging V-back; sleeveless; bias-cut fishtail skirt with train. Jacket: Box shape; below-waist length; high round neck, narrow band collar; short set-in sleeves; self scallop trim around edges; lined in black silk organza. Worn by wife of donor. Gift of Dr. A. Hamilton Rice, 1944.

REFERENCE 
44.142.16A-C 
TECHNICAL DETAILS 
Printed black satin with multicolored, diffuse scattered floral motif shot with silver metallic
Label: Mainbocher / 12 Avenue George V à Paris / 15.299 (dress)
Label: Salon Moderne / Saks-Fifth Avenue / N 
1935 
Day dress 

Background This day dress of black silk crepe cloqué in an asymmetrical bias drape shows the raised hemline popular in the mid-1930s. Mainbocher’s use of bows as a signature ornamentation reflects a nostalgic referencing of 18th-century design conceits. Description Dress: Bias, spiral cut; mid-calf length; asymmetric V-neck; short sleeve; right upper front of bodice extends as pointed capelet, pleated into back left shoulder seam; slightly flared bias skirt; left shoulder hook closure; unlined; set-in sleeves, with saddle at left front only. Worn by wife of donor. Gift of Dr. A. Hamilton Rice, 1944.

REFERENCE 
44.142.20A-B- 
TECHNICAL DETAILS 
Black silk crepe cloqué with bow motifs
Label: Mainbocher 12 Avenue George V à Paris; 18983
Bust measurement: 35” (approx)
Waist measurement: 26”
Center back length: 47”
Hem circumference: 54” 
1935 
Evening dress and poncho 

Background The 1930s were Mainbocher’s great creative years. Taking inspiration from extraordinary textiles, he here playfully pairs a classical draped gown with a boldly contrasting novelty poncho. The ensemble was made for actress Helen Vinson, a Warner Brothers' contract player. Description Dress: Floor-length; straight front neck, narrow straps, deep V-back; tunic effect over-panel draped from neckline, diagonally across back, extending into long pointed train; covered ball buttons at left hip; long, pointed, mitered train; center section (covered by over-panel) in black china silk. Poncho: Below-hip length, longer in back; high V-neck front and back; center front closure with large self-covered buttons; deeply draped at right back; curved hem; charmeuse lining. Made for donor Gift of Miss Helen Vinson, 1953.

REFERENCE 
53.346A-B 
TECHNICAL DETAILS 
Black silk satin; red velvet shot with cellophane; red charmeuse
Label: Mainbocher / 12 Avenue George V à Paris; Me. Helen Vinson; 16139.801- (dress)
Dress:
Bust measurement: 34¼”
Waist measurement: 26”
Center back length: 94” (including train)
Poncho:
Center back length: 39”
Right side measurement: 45”
Left side measurement: 33” 
ADDITIONAL IMAGES 
1935-36 
Evening dress 

Background An example of Mainbocher’s ongoing fascination with historicism, a late-19th century focus on garment back detail is apparent in the design of this evening gown. The fullness of its black satin skirt is supplemented by a draped shock of bright cerise satin, drawing attention to the wearer upon exit, as well as entrance. Description Dress: Full-length; fitted bodice; narrow shoulder straps; sweetheart neck, plunging V-back; tucked at center front bust; narrow waistband; five-gore skirt, center back panel in cerise; handkerchief hem; self-covered button closure at center back; unlined. Belt: Self fabric; 1¼” wide; topstitched; square covered buckle; black metal eyelets; black leather lining. Garment structure This dress has a plain, straightforward front with a simple sweetheart neckline and pleats to shape the bodice at the bust. In stark contrast, a cerise-satin handkerchief-shaped panel is precisely inserted at the back to create a flare. The deep V-neckline extends almost to the back waist. Unlined, the dress fastens at center back with a dozen satin-covered ball buttons and self-fabric loops. Below the waist, the opening is set into a slash on the cerise panel. The gored skirt fastens at the waist with hooks and eyes, which are flatter than the buttons and are hidden under the belt. The inside of the dress is finished by hand with overcast seams, narrow hems, and chiffon facings at the edges. Worn by wife of donor. Gift of Dr. A. Hamilton Rice, 1944.

REFERENCE 
44.142.30A-B 
TECHNICAL DETAILS 
Black silk satin; cerise silk satin
Label: Mainbocher / 12 Avenue George V à Paris; 21.125 (dress)
Bust measurement: 34”
Waist measurement: 28”
Center back length: 45”
Belt measurement: 36” 
1936 
Evening dress 

Background Mainbocher’s love for expensive fabric included an affinity for fur of all kinds. This tunic, evocative of Paul Poiret’s early 20th-century hoop-skirted sorbet silhouette, is formed by a satin overdress layered atop a crepe georgette column and fringed in rich monkey fur, the epitome of luxury trim for the 1930s. Description Underdress: Crepe; slip; full-length; bias-cut; V-neck, lower in back; georgette overskirt with wide center back godet Tunic: Satin; raised waist; below-knee length; bolero-effect sleeveless bodice, surplice center front panels; waist lower in back; full skirt with 8" wide border of monkey fur; center back self-covered button closure. Belt: Satin; pleated front panel, 2" wide; narrower back section; concealed left side closure. Garment structure The surplice-style bodice has a sweetheart neckline with a deep V in back. The front has an underbodice to avoid gaping and to retain the essence of the design. The front and back bodice sections are finished separately with points at the shoulders; the points lapping front-over-back and stitched together by hand. The belt features four cummerbund-style centered pleats. The unlined tunic is fastened with satin-covered ball buttons and braid loops at center back. The overbodice is finished with narrow chiffon bias facing, the underbodice with narrow hems. All seams are hand-overcast. Worn by donor. Gift of Mrs. Frederick Childs, Jr., 1973.

REFERENCE 
73.237A-C 
TECHNICAL DETAILS 
Black calendered (surface treated) silk satin; black silk satin-back crepe; black silk georgette; black monkey fur
Label: Mainbocher / 12 Avenue George V à Paris; 19843, Frederick Childs (tunic)
Overdress:
Bust measurement: 39”
Waist measurement: 30”
Center back length: 31½”
Belt length: 31½”
Underdress:
Bust measurement: 35”
Center back length: 47” 
ADDITIONAL IMAGES