Background
The textile chosen by Mainbocher for this short evening dress and matching bolero mimics the multi-dimensionality he earlier achieved by cutwork and layering. The complex printed and woven floral has been worked into a sophisticated cut, its seams underlining the bust from the front and plunging dramatically to below-waist level in the back.
Description
Dress: Strapless; below-knee length; free-floating bandeau bodice extending from diagonal waist seam, tucked at center seam, low V-back; flaring dress body cut from single fabric length, seamed on bias at center back, tucks at waist sides; tailored bow at center back waist; center back zipper closure; boned bodice liner; stiffened lining of fuchsia/gold changeable silk twill.
Bolero: Slightly shorter in front with rounded corners; wide round neckline; elbow-length set-in sleeves with narrow slashed turn-back cuff; lined in violet silk crepe.
Garment structure
The dress bodice bias panels are seamed at the center front and shaped by folding and overlapping lower half over top, thus creating a fullness that functions as a rounded bra cup. In the process of this shaping, the front bodice panels return to the straight grain on the sides and are seamed with bias-cut half-back panels. These are joined center back with a metal zipper. The bodice is basted to a boned, cotton structural lining, which stabilizes the placement of its panels as well as offering support. The slightly flared skirt is cut in one piece with a seam at center back, and is backed with a stiff interfacing to preserve its shape.
The motifs of the fabric mirror one another on both the dress bodice and bolero front panels. This placement is in contrast with the actual repeat pattern of the textile and reflects an extravagance on the part of the designer.
All seams on the dress are finished with pinking instead of hand-overcast, perhaps distinguishing the ensemble as model rather than a production piece.
Gift of Mrs. Wilda Symonds, 1985.