Garment detail 

This dress is cut on the bias with intricate seaming, unlined, and very lightweight. It has a deep V-neckline in the front and a corresponding V-shaped back dipping quite low. The front bodice is pleated as it meets the curved convex seam of the skirt. Several appliqués on the bodice meld invisibly with the painterly floral pattern of the brocade. Appliqué seams are used to avoid disrupting fabric design. It appears that an additional purpose of these appliqués was to add color to less interesting expanses of fabric. This technique—cutting the fabric apart and sewing it back together to rearrange the fabric design—was used by other couture houses of the day.