Background
By the mid-1930s a woman’s wardrobe was considered incomplete without an array, large or small, of suits. Going-away suits had become a trousseau necessity, far more practical and with a greater longevity than traditional lingerie. The optical effect of this suit’s precision cut graphic playfully experiments with mitering techniques that were already familiar to the house. The donor’s attribution of the unlabeled suit to Worth/Paris is substantiated by its superb design and craftsmanship.
Description
Jacket: Striped wool; semi-fitted, hip-length; horizontal striped yoke, front and back; round neck, foldover corners at opening; long sleeves, slits at sleeve ends, composition knots at wrist.
Blouse: Striped wool; fitted, double-breasted; hip-length; deep V-shaped center front placket pieced to form chevron pattern; V-shaped, mitered striped back yoke; round neck, striped stock tie; short sleeves with triangular shaped striped insets; bib drop-front, button closure
Skirt: Red wool; slightly flared, below-knee length; red leather belt with covered buckle.
Garment structure
Fabricated in a raised woven stripe wool crepe, this striking suit features V-shaped insets, creating chevron effects by directionally changing the grain from vertical to horizontal on the jacket and blouse. Although not always precisely matched, the overall optical effect of the seaming is virtuosic. The six-panel skirt has a slight flare and no waistband, instead; the waist edge is finished with a grosgrain ribbon facing.
Worn by the donor as her “going-sway” suit.
Gift of Mrs. John Walden Myer, 1953.