Spring 1966 
Evening dress 

Background This sophisticated design quotes two familiar, earlier looks. Mainbocher, creator of the strapless evening dress in 1934, here melds a strapless bodice to a flared tunic for his Spring 1966 collection. The combination yields a silhouette strong enough to command execution in unforgiving black. Description Sheath; strapless fitted bodice; slightly curved neckline; straight full-length skirt; full, circular-cut above-knee length overskirt, chiffon over organdy; center back hem vent; center back zipper closure; boned foundation bodice in black china silk with grosgrain waistband; lined in black china silk. Garment structure The boned bodice is cut straight across the bust, then dips in a gentle curve toward the back. The circular-cut, undulating chiffon overskirt is held out by a layer of organdy. An inner grosgrain stay made to hook at a smaller waist dimension reduces stress on the center back hand-sewn zipper. Worn by donor. Gift of Ms. Lillian Tucker, 2004. Purchased from Mainbocher after his final collection in 1971; previously a part of the house archives.

REFERENCE 
2004.37.2 
TECHNICAL DETAILS 
Black peau du soie, black organdy, black chiffon
Label: “520” (stamped) and “S 66” (inscribed)
Bust measurement: 30”
Waist measurement: 23”
Center back length: 47”
ADDITIONAL IMAGES 
Fall 1966 
Suit 

Background In 1965, Mainbocher nodded to the ascending skirt hemline by offering the option of a “client-length” skirt, raised according to preference. This popular solution—which he continued in following years—resolved what he termed the “skirt-length drama.” The youthful color juxtaposition of this suit features a knee-skimming skirt, affording its wearer a contemporary look, while retaining her dignity. Description Jacket: Magenta bouclé; single-breasted; fitted; below-waist length; hollow tubular "bolster" collar on round neck; three-quarter length set-in sleeves; composition magenta buttons; lined in deep salmon-pink satin-back crepe. Skirt: Violet bouclé; straight; knee-length; four-panel; gathered in front to 1" waistband; left side zipper closure; lined in purple china silk; back drop-lined in lavender shantung; black grosgrain and elastic no-slip waistband (not original). Garment structure Focal to the jacket design, the tubular “bolster” collar is slightly set in from the rounded edge of the center front neckline and mounted with its top layer rolling back on itself, to affix slightly askew from where it began. The skirt is flat-lined in china silk and has a hand overcast lavender silk drop lining that covers the back and seat. Gift of Mr. Robert Winthrop, 1986.

REFERENCE 
86.60.7A-B 
TECHNICAL DETAILS 
Magenta mohair bouclé; violet tweed mohair bouclé
Label: Mainbocher Inc.; Fall, 66 (typed twill label; both in jacket)
Jacket:
Bust measurement: 36”
Center back length: 29½”
Skirt:
Waist measurement: 29”
Center back length: 25½”
Spring 1967 
Evening dress and scarf 

Background Remaining true to his aesthetic in the face of tumultuous fashion times and world events of the late 1960s, Mainbocher continued to experiment with vivid palettes and non-Western silhouettes. His clients, meanwhile, relied on him to make sense out of the confusion. The exotic design of this evening creation, referred to as a “harem dress” in the February 24, 1967, issue of "The New York Times," coincides with a public fascination with Indian and Far Eastern cultures, and is interpreted in a controlled, American couture vocabulary. Description Dress: Full-length; fitted bodice; camisole neck with narrow straps; slightly flared fishtail skirt; sarong-effect draped overskirt with knee-length hanging panel at center front, pointed in back; left side zipper closure; attached slip in purple satin-back crepe. Scarf: Right triangle; hand-rolled edge. Garment structure The skirt center front panel is cut on grain. The side back panels and godet at center back are bias cut in quarter circles; the excess fullness at the back creates a fishtail effect. The underskirt is satin-back crepe and has an 18” slit at center front. Gift of Mr. Robert Winthrop, 1986.

REFERENCE 
86.60.13A-B 
TECHNICAL DETAILS 
Purple silk chiffon crepe, discharge printed in scattered bright green abstracted floral
Label: Mainbocher Inc.; Spring 1967 (typed tape label)
Dress:
Bust measurement: 35”
Waist measurement: 28”
Center back length: 51”
Scarf:
51” on longest side
ADDITIONAL IMAGES 
Fall 1967 
Evening ensemble 

Background At a time when fashion was viewed as disposable rather than as an investment, Mainbocher consistently reminded his clients of the timeless nature of his designs as a justification for his price structure. This confidence in the solidity of his judgment is reflected in his repeats of many already familiar design elements. Revisiting an old American favorite, the lowly gingham plaid, here he chooses a contemporary metallic-shot evening fabrication, this time a gold and silver tattersall brocade to contrast with a stark black wool jersey. Description Dress: Full-length; brocade sleeveless bodice; wide round neckline; jersey straight skirt, gathered at front waist; deep center front hem vent; center back zipper closure, separate skirt and bodice zippers; bodice lined in yellow china silk; skirt lined in black china silk. Belt: Jersey; 1" wide; faced in black china silk; rectangular gilt metal buckle set with large citrus yellow rhinestones. Jacket: Brocade; fitted; four-button, single-breasted; waist-length; notched collar; three-quarter length sleeves; gold rhinestone shank buttons; lined in tan silk. Garment structure The lightly fitted short-waisted bodice is joined at lowest rib level to its softly gathered skirt, which has a 14” long center-front vent. The neckline and armholes are faced in hand-overcast ivory taffeta; the bodice itself is lined in yellow plain weave silk. Silk couture underarm shields (placed by the atelier) are hand-stitched along their ribbon edging. A separate silk tab floats beneath the hook and eye at the center-back neckline to prevent scratching. The center back placket engages two zippers: a long pale zipper to coordinate with and secure only the bodice and a black zipper closing the skirt and surmounting the pale zipper tail which floats several inches beyond the bodice edge. Gift of Mr. Robert Winthrop, 1986.

REFERENCE 
86.60.5A-C 
TECHNICAL DETAILS 
Silver and gold metallic brocade in tattersall check; black wool jersey
Label: Mainbocher Inc.; Fall 1967 (typewritten tape label)
Dress
Bust measurement: 35”
Waist measurement: 30”
Center back length: 51½”
Jacket:
Center back length: 19”
Belt:
35” long x 1” wide
ADDITIONAL IMAGES 
Fall 1967 
Coat (with scarf and muff, not shown) 

Background This opulent wool coat proves a lush exception to the numerous fleece-lined models Mainbocher showed for Fall 1967. Lined in a surprising light brown summer ermine (not as recognizable but just as expensive as its more familiar white winter counterpart), this otherwise low-key charcoal grey coat was shown with a muff and scarf made of the same rarefied fur. Description Coat: A-line; knee-length; six-button double-breasted; squared turnover collar; long sleeves with stepped shoulder seam; rectangular patch pockets at front hip; shaped notch on pockets and neckline; black bakelite shank buttons with incised spiral design; body lined in ermine; arms lined in taupe quilted satin. Garment structure The double-breasted has three working buttons on the left-hand side, with bound buttonholes and decorative buttons on the right-hand side, stitched atop non-functioning buttonholes. The under-lap beneath them is secured by two brown flat buttons that match the fur lining. The long sleeve is cut with a decorative, angular, partial-saddle extending onto the shoulder, beyond the traditional raglan line. The sleeves are lined with quilted satin to facilitate their bending at the elbow. The rounded turn collar has square corners and is shaped by hand with pad-stitching. (Photographed over 86.60.5A.) Owned by Miss Isabel Schults. Gift of Mrs. Jeremiah Milbank, III, 1987.

REFERENCE 
87.59.1A-C 
TECHNICAL DETAILS 
Charcoal grey brushed wool mohair; light brown (summer) ermine
Label: Mainbocher Inc. New York
Bust-level measurement: 44½”
Center back length: 42½”
ADDITIONAL IMAGES