Background
Remaining true to his aesthetic in the face of tumultuous fashion times and world events of the late 1960s, Mainbocher continued to experiment with vivid palettes and non-Western silhouettes. His clients, meanwhile, relied on him to make sense out of the confusion. The exotic design of this evening creation, referred to as a “harem dress” in the February 24, 1967, issue of "The New York Times," coincides with a public fascination with Indian and Far Eastern cultures, and is interpreted in a controlled, American couture vocabulary.
Description
Dress: Full-length; fitted bodice; camisole neck with narrow straps; slightly flared fishtail skirt; sarong-effect draped overskirt with knee-length hanging panel at center front, pointed in back; left side zipper closure; attached slip in purple satin-back crepe.
Scarf: Right triangle; hand-rolled edge.
Garment structure
The skirt center front panel is cut on grain. The side back panels and godet at center back are bias cut in quarter circles; the excess fullness at the back creates a fishtail effect. The underskirt is satin-back crepe and has an 18” slit at center front.
Gift of Mr. Robert Winthrop, 1986.